As the apple is to the inhabitants of the Vinschgau Valley, so is the Jangger to the people of the Sarntal Valley. The difference could hardly be greater. Thus, armed only with an apple as befits a true Vinschgau girl, I boldly set off for the tradition-minded Sarntal Valley to learn more about this very particular item of clothing.
A love for tradition that has lasted for generations
The road took me up through a series tunnels to the town of Sarnthein and directly into the welcoming arms of Albert Unterweger, director and leading light of the Handweberei Unterweger, his
family hand-weaving business. I find myself standing in the middle of the shop, between “Sarner Toppar” (slippers), woollen socks and snug warm blankets. In the background I can hear the loom hard at work, while the piece of pure wool in my hand feels like a cloud ... and then I see it. The Sarner Jangger!
The all-rounder
This garment has been around for so long that not even Albert can say which came first, the valley or the Jangger. One thing is for sure, however: this knitted jacket is mandatory attire for every true Sarner! The Jangger is a genuine all-rounder. As it is knitted purely from sheep’s wool with small, very tight stitches, it keeps the wearer nice and warm (but not sweaty!), it is hard-wearing and, with its natural colour, there are no style issues. It has to be close-fitting: the shape develops by itself from regular wearing. In former times the Jangger was mainly worn while working, a practical solution in an area where winters are cold and the valley was sometimes cut off from the outside world by bad weather and snow.
Jangger or traditional costume?
But nowadays many a Sarner will not leave home without their trusty jacket – unless it is a feast day. Then it is time for the traditional local costume to be brought out of the wardrobe! This distinctive outfit features a large embroidered leather belt, the “Fatsch”, and similarly embroidered “Krax”, or braces. Those who cannot bear to be without their favourite Jangger may put it on, but with only the top button done up or perhaps held together by a small chain, so that the costume underneath can still be seen. It would be a shame otherwise.
Desperately hard-working housewives ...
There still exist hard-working housewives who will knit these jackets themselves! Each stitch is passionately knitted and finishing the work may take weeks or even months. After all, a Jangger is for life – or even longer, as they are often handed down. The pride of every son of the Sarntal Valley!
For the Jangger has its place even in the modern wardrobe. It represents homeland and tradition for many people, not just those from the Sarn Valley. It is a garment that has survived the centuries and will always fit. Whether traditional, with just a small inside pocket, or modern with a full checked lining, the only question is whether the “true” Sarner Jangger should have deer-horn or metal buttons – here opinions differ.
Perhaps you already know the answer to the question?