Barbara visits Anton Dalvai from Berggasthof Dorfner, a private landlord in Gschnon, and reports on her trip.

As children we always used to play 'grandmother's footsteps', known in South Tyrol as 'Ox am Berg'! And today our footsteps are taking us up the mountains above Neumarkt and Montan to try a bit of ox on our plates!

 

The path leads steeply upwards from Montan to Konzl, a famous viewpoint offering splendid views of the South Tyrol Unterland area. But we don't linger there and continue on our way until, all of a sudden, we catch sight of our destination: Gschnon and Berggasthof Dorfner.

The path carries on through Truden Nature Park, past boards displaying woodland animals to the limestone kilns, which were in operation until a few decades ago. And then we've already reached Gschnon. In the background Truden and the Weißhorn mountain are veiled in a magical mist, framed by delicate flowering sour cherry trees, which will later bear fruit to be made into cordials and jam.

The dining room features elegant tables with enchanting views and is carefully furnished to reflect the history of the place.

Anton Dalvai, the landlord, is also the cook. Both he and his mother have memories of him helping out willingly in the kitchen as a child. His decision to become a chef was just a logical progression. Our lunch was dominated by asparagus and ox meat, which was not an easy choice given the appealing items on the menu. What a pity that taste can't be captured in photos. ;)

Dorfner is a great place to have a holiday too, in one of the eight cosy rooms with far-reaching views across the Unterland area and a sunny terrace beneath a large sour cherry tree.

The small Capuchin monastery of Gschnon dates back to the year 1632 and was dedicated to Mary's parents Joachim and Anne, but has since been known as 'Maria Schnee' (Mary in the snow). It was built entirely of wood and is still in its original state. The 14 tiny cells are run by their mother monastery in Neumarkt and intended to be a place of rest and contemplation.

Before setting off back home again, I take a look in the newly built free range stable with an ox clearly enjoying rubbing against a motorised massage brush in front of it. Dorfner's oxen spend a lot of time grazing on the meadows at Castelfeder and grow slowly thanks to their natural feed. This can't help but give the meat a natural taste!