The Krampus demons are loose  

The popular figure of Father Christmas began its triumphant progress through the world several decades ago and, sitting on his sledge being pulled through the air by reindeers with red noses, has become the superhero of the Advent and Christmas periods. Across the country, older heroes and customs sank into obscurity and the whole of Europe was at his feet. The whole of Europe? No! A small region put up resistance and diligently cultivated old Advent and Christmas traditions, keeping faith with its 'heroes'.

5th December

Once upon an Advent like any other, autumn had brandished its paintbrush and the last yellow and red shades on the lower valley slopes still bore witness to its blaze of colour, while the highest mountain peaks, with a light dusting of snow, reached up to the heavens. (No, they weren't afraid that it would fall on their heads.)

The danger

Temperatures had clearly gone down, the days were drawing in and the evenings were long and dark. The ideal conditions for evil spirits to run around and drag faithless fellows down into perdition, tear innocent children away from their families and lead young girls astray. Yet even evil spirits are not unbeatable. The best defence against them is with fiery lights, loud yelling, the deafening ringing of bells, rattling of chains and distorted masks. These masks are chiselled out of wood over the course of the year by patient hands, their terrifying features given a lifelike quality with colour and brushes.

The solution

Punctually, on 5th December they are out and about: the young, strong men, camouflaged in pelts and wooden masks, so that evil spirits cannot recognise them and take their revenge later, armed with sticks and torches and running through the night causing an awful din around the villages. Krampus demons take on the guise of those they wish to keep out, adopting their strengths and a certain degree of ferocity. Anyone meeting them on a dark night would do well to be on their guard. And yet plenty of visitors will fall under the spell and not want to miss this scary occasion; a kind of untamed primal life-force is at work here. The wild companions of St. Nikolaus are of an altogether gentler variety, but that is the next story...

Would you like to see a Krampus run? Close up? Perhaps your private landlords are even taking part and you don't know yet. Ask them!

There follows a list which is by no means exhaustive. Ask for details at your local tourist office.

05.12. Centro storico di Bressanone, Cortaccia sulla Strada del Vino, Merano, Lana, Parcines, Lasa, Termeno

06.12. Naturno

07.12. Villandro, Bolzano, Burgusio

08.12.  Senales, Dobbiaco

09.12. Castelrotto, Sesto