An early summer walk to the Geisler peaks

It takes a while to get to the end of the Villnöss Valley - but it is most certainly worth it! With not much traffic, but plenty of nature, it is a paradise for hikers and mountain lovers. My personal guide for the day, Peter Schatzer, owner of the Apartments Schatzer, greets me with a broad grin and shows me where to park.



All alone in the nature park

I throw my rucksack into his car and we set off together along forest trails towards our objective, as today we will be taking it easy. “The season hasn’t really started yet,” says Peter, with whom I am immediately on friendly terms, “so we will see what the winter has left behind.” And, as a matter of fact, we meet no one on the way up. Peter grew up here in the valley as one of 13 brothers and sisters; he has spent his life here and knows every secret path and trail. We trek along a path knotted with roots into the Puez-Geisler nature park, first quite steeply upwards past the traces that wind and weather have left on the mountains. We are heading for the Kofelwiesen meadows and will then continue via the ridge, where we can look forward to fantastic views of the famous Geisler peaks.

Peter gets into “his” mountains several times a week. He is a trained nature and hiking guide and also regularly offers his mountain expertise to the local tourist office. His own guests receive very special treatment, of course: “I am always prepared to accompany my guests, no matter which tour they want to do”, he says and continues on the path. The trail climbs ever higher and soon we cross one of the remaining snow fields. Peter goes ahead and checks the path, then I follow.



Avalanches and agriculture

Up here there are still numerous remnants of avalanches. It is hard to believe the violence with which these natural forces can carve a path. “There was a lot of snow this year”, says Peter, “so it will take a while before it all thaws.” And that is when the real work starts for him because, as a local, he of course helps out those of his friends who farm the mountains, preparing their meadows and pastures in spring.

Farming is in rude health here: “The initiatives to promote traditional breeding and cultivation methods are paying off”, says Peter, pleased. “There are now so many of the spectacled sheep that people are talking about actively using the pastures as grazing land again.”



Finally – the Geisler peaks!

The path leads on upwards and, after the Kofelwiesen, it meanders through a last piece of forest - then we are up on the ridge where, behind a hill, the impressive Geisler peaks finally appear before us against a pale blue, cloudless sky! A small shepherd's hut – now used by paragliders at the weekends – has defied the wind and weather for decades and invites us to take a break. Peter shares his sausage and crispy bread with me – a much better choice of snack than my cereal bars! We sit peacefully side by side, enjoying the panoramic views, and Peter tells me a little of the story of the rich cereal farmers of Villnöss with their silver watches, who brought a certain early prosperity to the valley.

Today – now that grain can be cheaply imported from abroad – the valley where Reinhold Messner grew up lives mainly off tourism, which is in fact flourishing thanks to the magnificent landscape and its “pale mountains”, the Dolomites. Here in the Villnöss Valley there are no giant hotels or mass produced items: the focus is instead on the individual tour and experience. And there is no better way to get to know the area than with hiking experts like Peter Schatzer, whose apartments not only offer the ideal starting point for wonderful walks, but who also personally accompanies his guests and introduces them to his homeland.

On the way home, what’s more, I absolutely had to stop at a restaurant. What else could it be but the “Brillenschaf” – the spectacled sheep! And I have never eaten lamb that tasted so good as in here! Highly recommended!