Tips for the first half of the day
Surrounded by green hills with their sunny, vine-covered slopes, flanked by the mighty Dolomites mountains and the Sarntaler Alps - here we are, in the city of contrasts, the city in the mountains, the gateway to the south that shouldn't be hastily glossed over, but consciously experienced in order to find out just how harmonious contrasts can be. At least for one day, for 24 hours.
Erratic Bozen. One minute on the side of a mountain, the next in the centre of the city. At the table to the right rough and ready South Tyrolean dialect is spoken, to the left a lively discussion in Italian is going on. History in the form of architecture, intoxicating festivals, age-old customs right next to a young, creative scene, in the form of everything that finds its way from the farms and nearby mountain slopes onto the plate. Here, where north and south like to tease each other, but love each other really, and where mountain lifestyle and urban culture dance a lively round dance, you are at the heart of things, in the capital of South Tyrol.
A morning 'all'italiana'
A typical Italian breakfast is a little on the sparse side, featuring a cappuccino or, even more minimal, a black coffee, and a speedily devoured pastry. However, this leaves more time to read the classic daily papers in South Tyrol. Those whose Italian is up to it can read up on the same topic from two different perspectives. In the cafés on Waltherplatz, where Bozen's rich and beautiful gather in the mornings, the news from outside the city is delivered to the breakfast table in the form of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, the Times or the Süddeutsche Zeitung. A glass of 'Bozner Wasser' in the Stadtcafé or breakfast with freshly squeezed fruit juice in lively and colourful nearby Exil will get your day off to a good start.
Forays into culture
The Bozner Dom rises up against a backdrop of green mountains and blue sky, giving the impression of reaching upwards, imposing and yet filigree. All eyes are drawn to it, along with the slight figure of the statue of the minnesinger, Walther von der Vogelweide, who gives his name the popular square, scene of Bozen's most famous events, from the 'Speckfest' to the Christmas market. He really seems to be staring at Bozen's most famous church – and so let's just say a quick hello to him before exploring the art, history and history of art of the cathedral also known as Maria Himmelfahrt. From here it's on to Dominikanerplatz, where you should have at least a look at the gothic paintings in the cloister and the church. After let's go past the Free University of Bozen-Bolzano, and off left to the famous Talfer Bridge, which will tell us its history. Or rather, it is the Talfer river itself flowing beneath the bridge that recounts its journey as it murmurs and splashes on its way. Cars, motorbikes, throngs of people pass over it, all going in the direction of the Victory Monument, which has a few stories to tell and in the basements explains some of the things witnessed earlier today.
Markets, shopping and aperitifs
If you are fortunate enough to be around on a Saturday, then the Bozen 'Somstigmorkt', or Saturday market, will demand some of your time. Skimming over the cheap market stalls, farmers in their blue aprons and Italian fruit and vegetable vendors with earthy brown fingers may be seen haggling with Italian mammas and primadonnas over the price and freshness of the produce. Only the best ends up on their children's plates. Nearby there is fresh or mature cheese, turned many times over, fragrant bread from Bozen bakers, fresh fish, shoes, household articles, flowers, fruit and vegetables piled up perilously high. The last three products may be found at Bozen Obstmarkt on a daily basis on working days, where, besides nuts, spices and sausage and cheese goods, there's another essential ingredient to a morning spent strolling around Bozen – aperitif bars. You can take your pick of the bars between 'banco 11' and 'Fischbänken'. It's best to go to one with lots of locals leaning elegantly at bar tables and having lively discussions about what's in the day's papers or about the excursion of next Sunday. Authentic Italian atmosphere and fare may be found at 'Carrettai', where the honesty of the guests may be relied on, when it comes to settling up.
Read here the second part of our Bozen tips!
In the meantime you can have a look for private accommodation in South Tyrol here...